Inside India's biggest couture shake-up: The designers who redefined luxury in 2026

Highlights:

• Rahul Mishra turned embroidery into wearable sculpture with Devi: The Eternal Muse.
• Masaba Gupta made a powerful couture debut with Chardi Kala.
• Jayanti Reddy celebrated Hyderabad’s royal heritage through The Gilded Era.
• Rohit Bal’s DASTKAR honored three decades of artisan craftsmanship.
• Arpita Mehta entered couture with a modern take on Indian textiles.

Indian couture took center stage at India Couture Week 2026, where designers blended tradition, storytelling, and fresh perspectives to create a season that felt both rooted and forward-looking.

The 19th edition of India Couture Week, organized by the Fashion Design Council of India (FDCI) in partnership with Hyundai and Nexxus New York, ran from July 23 to July 29. This year's celebration opened for the first time at Hyderabad's historic Falaknuma Palace before moving to Taj Palace, New Delhi.

Across 13 shows, India's leading fashion names explored everything from royal heritage and bridal traditions to experimental textiles and global couture influences.

Rahul Mishra: Where fashion becomes art

Devi: The Eternal MuseGetty Images

Rahul Mishra closed India Couture Week 2026 with Devi: The Eternal Muse, a collection inspired by temple sculptures and sringara, beauty and adornment as a form of devotion, identity, and transformation.

Originally showcased at Paris Haute Couture Week, the collection featured a new Festive Couture line. Mishra used his signature ektaarka technique to turn embroidery into sculptural art, creating garments shaped through detailed handwork.

Actor Sobhita Dhulipala embodied the collection’s eternal muse, inspired by an 11th-century bronze sculpture. “Inspired by the grace of a 11th-century bronze sculpture, she embodied the eternal muse…not as a showstopper, but as the living spirit that has inspired generations of sculptors, artisans and storytellers.”

Masaba Gupta: A bold couture beginning

Masaba Gupta joins the models on the runway during the House of Masaba show at India Couture Week 2026 on July 25, 2026 in Delhi, India.Getty Images

Masaba Gupta made her India Couture Week debut with Chardi Kala, a bridal collection focused on Indian culture and craftsmanship. Crafted in kora cotton and tissue silk, the collection featured trench-inspired silhouettes, high-waisted skirts, oversized patterns, and motifs like swords, tassels, and musical instruments. As mentioned, “reimagined through a lens that is unmistakably Masaba,” hand embroidery, embellishment, and stonework added texture to the designs, with colors ranging from soft pastels to jewel tones and gold accents. Carol Gracias opened the show in an anarkali and sherwani jacket, while Madhu Sapre closed in a red bridal look.

Jayanti Reddy: Hyderabad's royal influence

Jayanti Reddy presented The Gilded Era at Hyundai India Couture Week 2026, drawing inspiration from Hyderabad’s royal heritage, palaces, architecture, and Nizami craftsmanship. The 60-look collection featured antique floral motifs, gold tones, and intricate hand embroidery. Aditi Rao Hydari and Siddharth closed the show as exclusive showstoppers, with Hydari wearing an embellished gold-and-beige peplum blouse paired with a zardozi sharara, while Siddharth appeared in an embroidered sherwani with dhoti-style trousers and traditional jewelry. Sudha Reddy also attended the showcase in a mint embroidered lehenga adorned with sequins.

Rohit Bal: A tribute to artisans

House of Rohit Bal presented DASTKAR, a collection dedicated to the artisans who have shaped the brand for more than 30 years. The showcase celebrated the embroiderers, weavers, dyers, and craftspeople whose skill and dedication remain central to the house’s identity.

Inspired by French tapestries, vintage wallpaper patterns, and traditional motifs, the collection reflected Rohit Bal’s signature approach through dramatic silhouettes, rich textures, and detailed handwork. White tailoring, black velvet, crimson embroidery, silks, and intricate craftsmanship defined the presentation.

Presented after Rohit Bal’s passing, DASTKAR marked a new chapter for the fashion house under the leadership of Fraze Tasnim while honoring the creative legacy and artisan relationships built over decades.

Arpita Mehta: Entering couture territory

PTI

Arpita Mehta celebrated 10 years of her label with Ceremonial, her debut couture collection at India Couture Week 2026. The collection marked a move beyond her signature festive wear, exploring India’s textile traditions through Bandhani, Banarasi silk, tissue fabrics, and Kantha embroidery.

Mirror work, vintage-inspired gemstone details, and a palette of sage, teal, rose tan, violet, and sindoor red brought together traditional techniques with a contemporary approach. The collection followed the success of the custom lehenga Mehta created for Anshula Kapoor’s mehendi ceremony, which became one of the season’s most discussed wedding looks.

The showcase also reflected Mehta’s collaboration with Bergner, inspired by the idea of “Objects for the kitchen, crafted like couture,” celebrating everyday design through craftsmanship, detail, and form.

Other standout moments

Anamika Khanna opened at Falaknuma Palace with a collection celebrating women artisans from Barmer, Rajasthan, and Kalighat, West Bengal. Falguni Shane Peacock presented Le Grand Voyage, inspired by European destinations.

Tarun Tahiliani showcased Navaratan through an immersive exhibition, while Kunal Rawal presented Rawalgarh with over 140 menswear looks. Rimzim Dadu pushed textile innovation with INLAE, using mother-of-pearl as part of the fabric. Together, the collections reflected Indian fashion’s balance of heritage, creativity, and craftsmanship.